04.27.09
Posted in Expert Advice at 4:56 pm by Paris Ambiance Blogger
One Saturday morning, my husband walked into our living room and tossed a book into my lap with a smile. Since the book was about France, he knew I would enjoy it. Then I discovered the secret of his smile, though the story is about a family’s move to France - included throughout the events of their new lives in the town of Louviers are delicious French recipes. Ah, the best of both worlds!
On Rue Tatin is just one of Susan Loomis’ six cookbooks, and she is as excellent a writer as she is a cook. Her down- to-earth style and cultural tales make the recipes all the more inviting. One particular favorite is a simple salad recipe that we often serve for lunch or as a side dish for dinner. Finding a vinaigrette recipe that reminds me of the ones we enjoy in France was a long awaited pleasure.
Apple, Roquefort, and Walnut Salad
For the Vinaigrette:
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
2 teaspoons Dijon-style mustard
Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
For the Salad:
10 cups mixed salad greens torn in bite-size pieces
1 large tart apple, cored, peeled and cut into ½ cubes
½ cup walnuts, lightly toasted (We substitute pecans.)
3 ounces Roquefort cheese
1. Place the vinegar and the mustard in a large bowl, add a pinch of salt and pepper, and whisk together. Whisk in the olive oil until the mixture emulsifies. Adjust the seasoning.
2. Add the salad greens, apple, and walnuts and toss until they are coated with dressing. Crumble the Roquefort over the salad, toss well, and season to taste. Serve immediately.
We appreciated permission to share this recipe from pages 95-96 of On Rue Tatin. For those with upcoming visits to Paris, you may enjoy a cooking class with Susan. The next one-day classes are May 7 and 8, then again on June 18 and 19 in Patricia Wells’ cooking studio on rue Jacob in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Près. For more information, please click here.
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04.22.09
Posted in Expert Advice at 2:21 pm by Paris Ambiance Blogger
“I never rebel so much against France as not to regard Paris with a friendly eye; she has had my heart since my childhood…. I love her tenderly, even to her warts and her spots. I am French only by this great city: the glory of France, and one of the noblest ornaments of the world.”
~ Michel de Montaigne
1533-1592
This noble city has delighted travelers throughout the centuries. With France as the world’s number one tourist destination, Paris welcomes over 20,000,000 visitors each year. Her streets brim with faces from all over the world that have come to partake of the French experience.
Over the last few centuries, the face of tourism has changed incredibly. With transportation becoming faster, safer, and more economical, visits have become shorter and more frequent. In the 18th century, the Grand Tour of the young British aristocracy might have lasted up to three years, with Paris often occupying several months. Today, the average stay for a tourist in Paris is 2.6 days.
For those who love Paris, it seems hard to imagine spending such a short time in this amazing city. However, many travelers are combining their visit with stops to other destinations in France and around Europe, and these 2.6 days are the time allotted for Paris. In light of these changes, one might ask the question: How can I experience the best of Paris during my stay? Answering this question is the goal of A Paris View. Though there is no way to see it all, there are ways to drink deeply of Paris and taste of her greatness.
For the last few years, I have organized visits for small groups of friends in and around Paris. My desire was not only for them to see all of the things that you have to see, but also for them to enjoy and to love Paris as I do. In A Paris View, I have compiled the best plans and ideas to introduce you to my highlights of Paris in 2.6 days. I have also put together an assortment of information to help you plan and enjoy your trip, and in the process, to make Paris your own!
(Today’s blog is taken from the Introduction of A Paris View, our Paris travel guide. Our updated third edition of this interactive e-book will be available next week!)
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04.16.09
Posted in Expert Advice at 8:46 pm by Paris Ambiance Blogger
In a previous blog, “A Day in Provence,” I referred to our wonderful excursion with Mika from Hotel d’Europe. http://blog.parisambiance.com/page/4/ I also mentioned that thanks to the high-speed TGV train, a few days in Provence is a nice addition to a trip to Paris. Today, I remembered another wonderful visit to Provence.
On this trip, we again booked rooms at Hotel d’Europe, a personal favorite in Avignon. But this time, we decided to be a bit adventuresome and rent a car for a few days. Fortunately, the only challenging adventures were getting in and out of the rental car lot! The rest of the trip was dreamy.
We took off on our outing with a rough map and enough information to keep us going, but not enough to ruin our sense of discovery. We wound past vineyards, villages, and ancient ruins, stopping everywhere our hearts desired. The natural beauty and the sense of history were captivating.
We began with a bite to eat on the patio of Café Déco, in L’Isle-Sur-La-Sourgue, known as the antique capital of Provence for its Sunday morning market. We then drove to Arles and saw the amphitheater built by the Romans ten years before the larger version in Rome. We were amazed at the Roman ruins throughout the area.
From there, with hopes of seeing the beginning of the lavender, we headed to the Abbey of Sénanque near Gordes. It was early July, and the lavender was just starting to bloom; but the fields of poppies were a beautiful transition. Provence always offers season after season of enjoyment.
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Posted in Sights in Paris at 8:32 am by Paris Ambiance Blogger
Well-deserved praise has been given to the beauty and symmetry of the French gardens. Who can stroll the rue de Rivoli without at least gazing into the Jardin de Tuileries, with its perfectly placed fountains and walkways leading to and from the Louvre and Place de le Concorde? And what child could not have a pleasant afternoon sailing a petite boat in the palace pond or riding a pony in the fashionable Jardin du Luxembourg? Yet, perhaps one of a Paris’ best kept secrets lies in the 16th arrondissement surrounded by woods in the Jardin de Bagatelle, a part of the 2090 acre Bois de Boulogne. If timing is everything, then you will not want to miss a magnificent moment in the early days of June viewing the roses of the Jardin de Bagatelle in Paris.
A glimpse of the park’s history offers an intriguing story of a substantive wager between a queen and one of her speculated lovers. With the most anticipated events of the day being a party of any sort, the bet was wagered between Marie Antoinette and the comte d’Artois, the King’s brother, that an old chateau then in ruins could not be totally rebuilt in three months and a grand party thrown in celebration of its completion. The race with time was on, and 900 men worked through the day and night with music to inspire them. Within 64 days, the Comte’s bet was won and the celebration began. Today, the Chateau de Bagetelle occupies the west side of the Parc de Bagatelle. Separated by peaceful woods, the rose garden of Jardin de Bagatelle lies to the east of the chateau.
In the early morning, as the park is opening, we wait at the gate in anticipation. We have visited a number of times, but every visit is an experience all of its own. The air is cool and invigorating. Soon we are hurrying along the path, past the restaurant and outdoor dining area to the first lovely arched trellises of seasonal flowers. Trying to enjoy every moment, we find ourselves feeling pushed to the large expanse before us - the welcoming Orangerie overlooking the breathtaking display of roses.
The rosary opened in June 1907 with 1500 of the finest roses. Though a formal garden in style, the goal was to present the rose in all of its forms. Today, the Bagatelle is recognized as a national collection of modern roses.
Never sure how to take it all in, we take panoramic photos, snapshots of each swag and topiary, and close-ups of the delicate dew droplets on each petal. The design is masterful, and the smells are intoxicating. Is it possible to find a place so blissfully perfect, captured in an early summer morning?
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04.10.09
Posted in Expert Advice at 2:44 pm by Paris Ambiance Blogger
Every nation seems to have its own piece of the puzzle. The French, among other things, possess an amazing gift of creativity. Whether we consider fashion design, interior design, architectural design, landscape design and the list goes on, French creativity has always inspired the world.
In the art of design, some seem to come by it naturally; others of us must study, look, and learn in hopes of capturing the essence of good design. For those of us that seem to require more effort, Paris becomes a virtual wonder for this study. Whether I am admiring a window display on the fashionable Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré or a beautiful Left Bank antique shop, I am filing away ideas and making mental notes. I remember strolling through an antique market and seeing architectural designs painted on cloths for display and wishing I could bring them all home. With every visit, I hope that I can catch a little more of the flair and seeming effortlessness that is so distinctively French.
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04.08.09
Posted in Expert Advice at 8:29 am by Paris Ambiance Blogger
For years, one of my most anticipated events of a Paris visit was the opportunity for antique shopping. Is there a better way to remember a fabulous trip than with a little memento? A French antique, big or small, makes a wonderful souvenir that can be enjoyed for years.
Economy is often a factor, but opportunities are available at every price point. My findings have ranged from a beautiful old chest, for which I emptied my savings, to antique leather bound copies of Blaise Pascal’s Pensées for $20.00. Every corner of Paris seems to offer sources for these finds.
One of the best and largest are the markets at Saint-Ouen, a must for real antiques lovers, on Saturdays, Sundays, and Mondays. My first few visits were in a private car, which was very nice since it is outside of central Paris and definitely not the best area to go alone. Back in the days of a stronger dollar, I saw more ladies from Dallas at the dealers’ market than any other represented people group. It seemed every item I would pick up after 10:00am was already sold and tagged for a Texan! Visit the website for more on each market: http://www.parispuces.com/en/Default.asp I especially enjoy Marche Paul Bert.
For those who would rather just make a quick stop after an early morning croissant or on the way to dinner, markets can be found in many arrondissements. On my last visit during the month of June, I enjoyed the market at Saint-Sulpice in the 6th arrondissement. I was pleased to see that both Saint-Ouen (”Clignancourt Flea Market”) and the Saint Sulpice market were both mentioned in Travel and Leisure’s short list of European markets: http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/lords-of-the-fleas/sidebar/1
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04.03.09
Posted in Planning Your Trip at 1:42 pm by Paris Ambiance Blogger
A taxi ride in Paris can be an adventure, especially if your pronunciation is not 100% (sometimes even if it is 100%). I am the first to admit that my pronunciation is often less than perfect. But there are a few words that seem to elude me no matter how much practice I give them. The number- one offender is: T-R-O-C-A-D-E-R-O. (This area is the best spot for taking pictures of the Eiffel Tower, and is one I often like to visit. You may read my previous blog on Trocadéro for more details: http://blog.parisambiance.com) Unfortunately, the frequency of my taxi rides to Trocadéro has not increased my success ratio for communicating the name to the driver.
However, pronunciation is not always the issue with taxi confusion. For example, recently my husband and I jumped into a taxi en route to a friend’s home for dinner. My husband boldly stated the name of the street. The driver replied: “You have a terrible French accent.” Now, I took a little offense to this comment since I had taught him myself! As things were to turn out, the driver had actually never heard of the street, and it was his confusion not ours. (Yes!)
The advice I can offer for taxi rides is to write the address of your destination on a piece of paper. Though I can usually give the driver perfect directions, writing the name down is always the easiest. Most of the drivers prefer just to enter it into their GPS. After all, have you ever met a man who would prefer directions from a MRS. over a GPS?
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