04.16.09

Jardin de Bagatelle

Posted in Sights in Paris at 8:32 am by Paris Ambiance Blogger

Well-deserved praise has been given to the beauty and symmetry of the French gardens. Who can stroll the rue de Rivoli without at least gazing into the Jardin de Tuileries, with its perfectly placed fountains and walkways leading to and from the Louvre and Place de le Concorde? And what child could not have a pleasant afternoon sailing a petite boat in the palace pond or riding a pony in the fashionable Jardin du Luxembourg? Yet, perhaps one of a Paris’ best kept secrets lies in the 16^th arrondissement surrounded by woods in the Jardin de Bagatelle, a part of the 2090 acre Bois de Boulogne. If timing is everything, then you will not want to miss a magnificent moment in the early days of June viewing the roses of the Jardin de Bagatelle in Paris.

A glimpse of the park’s history offers an intriguing story of a substantive wager between a queen and one of her speculated lovers. With the most anticipated events of the day being a party of any sort, the bet was wagered between Marie Antoinette and the comte d’Artois, the King’s brother, that an old chateau then in ruins could not be totally rebuilt in three months and a grand party thrown in celebration of its completion. The race with time was on, and 900 men worked through the day and night with music to inspire them. Within 64 days, the Comte’s bet was won and the celebration began. Today, the Chateau de Bagetelle occupies the west side of the Parc de Bagatelle. Separated by peaceful woods, the rose garden of Jardin de Bagatelle lies to the east of the chateau.

In the early morning, as the park is opening, we wait at the gate in anticipation. We have visited a number of times, but every visit is an experience all of its own. The air is cool and invigorating. Soon we are hurrying along the path, past the restaurant and outdoor dining area to the first lovely arched trellises of seasonal flowers. Trying to enjoy every moment, we find ourselves feeling pushed to the large expanse before us - the welcoming Orangerie overlooking the breathtaking display of roses.

The rosary opened in June 1907 with 1500 of the finest roses. Though a formal garden in style, the goal was to present the rose in all of its forms. Today, the Bagatelle is recognized as a national collection of modern roses.

Never sure how to take it all in, we take panoramic photos, snapshots of each swag and topiary, and close-ups of the delicate dew droplets on each petal. The design is masterful, and the smells are intoxicating. Is it possible to find a place so blissfully perfect, captured in an early summer morning?

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