01.27.09
Posted in Planning Your Trip at 2:04 pm by Paris Ambiance Blogger
Have you ever walked past a person or place and felt you had just passed someone or something that must be important? It was this feeling that drew us inside Le Procope. Amid the holiday lights, we were greeted to our left with a glass case housing Napoleon’s hat. We began to suspect we had found a place in history. We were drawn further inside, thinking that somehow we would come to understand our interest in this particular restaurant. Not wanting to advertise our ignorance, we sort of stood there hoping someone would announce its significance. But no, we only received a proper pronunciation.
We did not know that we had just stumbled into the oldest café in Paris. Some sources say it is the oldest restaurant in Paris, but I had always heard that honor belonged to La Tour d’Argent established in 1582 as an inn for the dining pleasure of aristocrats. (Even a visit to the web site is an experience: http://www.tourdargent.com) Le Procope was actually established in 1686, as a café for fashionable men only 20 years after the introduction of coffee. Later, when the Comédie française opened across the street, Le Procope became the café associated with the theater. Throughout the years, the restaurant hosted Rousseau, Voltaire, Victor Hugo, Benjamin Franklin, and Thomas Jefferson. And the story goes that Napoleon who was a frequent visitor had left his hat as a pledge. The literary and social history of Le Procope is documented by the décor. The web site offers a glimpse through photos of this inviting establishment, click here to visit the site.
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01.22.09
Posted in Sights in Paris at 12:23 pm by Paris Ambiance Blogger
Strolling down rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré is to walk on one of the most luxurious shopping streets in the world. With Hermès, Prada, and Gucci, this exclusive street is quite the place for those special purchases or even just window-shopping. Walking through the area, you may also notice some heightened security or on a normal day two guards in front of a large gate topped with the French flag behind which stands Palais de l’Elysée, the official residence of the French President.
As with many historical buildings in Paris, Palais de l’Elysée has experienced a long history with many different uses. Originally, the Hôtel d’Evreux was completed in 1722 as the home of a count. Later, the palace would become the unpopular residence of King Louis XV’s mistress, Madame de Pompadou.
Napoleon Bonaparte’s government was the first to officially use Palais de l’Elysée. Since then it has been the residence of Charles de Gaulle, Jacques Chirac, and now Nicolas Sarkozy. State guests are housed nearby at Hôtel de Marigny, another residence. Several years ago, I had the opportunity to walk through Hôtel de Marigny and view the quarters where many international leaders have stayed over the years. Perhaps, the nearness to the street or the lack of groups of tourist gives these buildings an amazing approachability. I have often wondered if visitors may pass with little knowledge of their residents.
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01.20.09
Posted in Expert Advice at 4:47 am by Paris Ambiance Blogger
The French have an incredible ease and cleverness for combining the old and new. With a background in Interior Design, I have often admired rooms filled with fabulous antiques seamlessly accented with contemporary pieces. Integrating the past and present is an art that I enjoy experimenting with in my own home. Yet, more than an art form, as with most French rationale – it just makes sense – to create a home that tells the story of its residents both past and present.
This concept is not only reflected in French interior design, but also can be viewed throughout Paris. Sometimes I like to think what I might have created if I had been asked to design a new entrance to the Louvre. No doubt, I would have tried to fashion a structure that would blend in with the time period of the existing buildings. But what was chosen? The design of a Chinese American architect, I. M. Pei, was selected representing the old and new. His explanation, “The solid is for the dead, but the transparent is for the living.”
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01.15.09
Posted in Sights in Paris at 11:53 pm by Paris Ambiance Blogger
I have always loved taking photos of Paris. Photography offers the opportunity of having a snapshot of a memory or the ambiance of an area that is lasting. Often, I find myself aiming for the usual photo, the perfectly centered facade of a famous monument.
On my most recent visit, I discovered a secret. Frantically squeezed between streams of traffic to my right and left, I snapped shots of the Arc de Triomphe with the trees on the Champs-Élysées lit with holiday lights. Soon I noticed a man poised and calm with his tripod taking numerous pictures. Most of my shots came out blurry – but not his. He sympathetically offered to send me some of his photos. His angle and his tripod had made the difference. Voilà! The secret – follow the professional!
Several days later, we were wandering around the Latin Quarter as the sun was setting. On a small side street, I noticed another professional photographer setting up for a shoot. I turned to see what he had in view. He was aiming for a shot of the Panthéon and Saint-Étienne-du-Mont in an eerie light. I began snapping a number of photos from a similar angle. When I e-mailed one of the photos to my children, the first response was, “Wow, Mom, that one looks professional.” “Oh, it was nothing,” I thought, “just following a photographer around Paris.”
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01.13.09
Posted in Expert Advice at 1:02 pm by Paris Ambiance Blogger
Certainly, the hardest part of a trip to Paris is leaving this beautiful city. After a little over two weeks, the time has come to say, “Adieu.” But “Adieu” is a farewell that indicates goodbye for an extended or permanent period of time. Long ago, I realized the only way I could part with Paris was to plan my next visit before I left – done. So instead I say “A bientôt!” ~ “Paris, I will see you again soon!”
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01.08.09
Posted in Expert Advice at 5:51 am by Paris Ambiance Blogger
As a cold front moved across Europe, Paris received a beautiful day of snow. The temperatures have continued to drop, and we have bundled up to walk around in 15 degrees Fahrenheit – a bit cold for Texans! The talk on the street is that this is the coldest winter in ten years. But we have certainly enjoyed seeing Paris dusted with a gentle coat of snow.
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01.06.09
Posted in Expert Advice at 11:02 am by Paris Ambiance Blogger
While we are in Paris, my husband is continually trying to “master” a French accent. He really enjoys having someone give him the exact pronunciation, so that he can gain ground word by word. I always enjoy seeing him with his favorite tutor – Metro Line 1 from George V to Châtelet. At each metro stop, an automated female voice announces the name of that location. He practices right along with her. The process seems to be going pretty well until he echoes her pronunciation of “Franklin D. Roosevelt” in a French accent! It is here that the system breaks down, but a free French lesson and inexpensive transportation make for a great buy and well-spent change.
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01.01.09
Posted in Expert Advice at 3:23 pm by Paris Ambiance Blogger
Bonne Année from Paris! New Year’s Eve dinner comes easy on Rue de Buci, just around the corner from our Paris apartment. With lovely shop windows brimming with French delicacies, the options seem limitless. We choose J.S.F.P. Traiteur for our dining pleasure. With escargot and pâté de foie gras in hand, we are off to celebrate!
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12.30.08
Posted in Sights in Paris at 9:59 am by Paris Ambiance Blogger
Why in Paris do you feel like you may somehow discover some unique shop, unknown to the rest of the world? This is how I felt when I stumbled into the beautiful patisserie, Gérard Mulot. Years later, I realized that my little stop had been written up in seemingly every travel and food magazine.
There is something particularly understated about the quaint streets of the 6th arrondissement. The first time I wandered behind the Marché Saint Germain was very early in the morning. I felt as if I was covering some uncharted trail where no other “common” American had ever meandered. Sure, it was not the well-trodden path to the Louvre, but little did I know how “discovered” it really was!
It was funny when years later while staying in the same area, my husband had a similar experience. Waking up at sunrise, he was out to find coffee and pastries. He rediscovered my little jewel of Gerard Mulot and brought me a baguette in bed. We quickly covered it in Sel de Mer (our favorite butter with sea salt) and downed it in moments. He spoke of this quiet street where he had wandered into this marvelous bakery. (I guess it should have been a bit telltale, when the other spot he stumbled upon was Starbucks – not exactly a remote destination!) Well, regardless of its notoriety, Gerard Mulot will not disappoint. Famous for macaroons and chocolates, you can even order from the website: www.gerard-mulot.com
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12.25.08
Posted in Expert Advice at 8:28 pm by Paris Ambiance Blogger
As I walk through the Louvre, I am amazed by all of the religious paintings. Inspired to slow my pace, I begin to stop and contemplate the possible meaning behind some of these great works of art. If you would like, perhaps you might reflect with me…
This particular painting of Jesus reminded me of the joy that both Mary and Elizabeth experienced at the birth of their sons. Two entirely different stories, one of the miraculous virgin birth of Jesus and the other a personal miracle of an elderly couple who is blessed with a long awaited child, John.
Years later, John would make the announcement about Jesus that would ring throughout history, “Behold the Lamb of God who takes away the sin of the world.” Though these words have significance to us, they must have rung much clearer to the Jewish people who had sacrificed lambs as they waited for the eternal Lamb of God.
The story of Abraham reflected this theme so beautifully. As he was taking his son Isaac to the sacrifice, the boy asked, “Where is the lamb?” Abraham responded, “God will provided for Himself the lamb.” Centuries later, John welcomed Jesus as God’s provision of this Lamb – providing for man what he could not provide for himself.
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